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Chile. Colorful, Charming, Contrasting, and the Longest Country in the World

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“I grew up in this town, my poetry was born between the hill and the

river, it took its voice from the rain, and like the timber, it steeped itself in

the forests.” Pablo Neruda

 

By Anita L. Sherman

 

So, you are thinking about visiting Chile in South America. It’s a long, narrow country along the southern half of the west coast of South America tucked between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean. Peru is to the north, Bolivia to the northeast and Argentina to the east. Chile commands more than 3,100 miles of coast on the South Pacific Ocean.

Think of it as a long colorful ribbon or tassel on South America’s skirt gaily flirting with the ocean. In fact, Chile is the longest country in the world from north to south and the Andes Mountain Range extends the entire length. Mountains on one side, the sea on the other – what’s not to love.

 

Before we go too much further into the delights of this country which abounds in natural beauty, let’s get the pronunciation correct. The official language in Chile is Spanish although the dialect is different from some ofits neighbors. Still, think – chee-leh rather than chilly – like you’re cold. The final ‘e’ has an ‘a’ sound.

Delving a bit deeper, Chile may have derived its name from the indigenous Mapuche word chilli, “where the land ends” or another thought is that it is attributed to the Mapuche imitation of a bird call – cheele-cheele. TheSpanish heard about chilli from the Incas in Peru who had been unable to conquer the land. Apparently the Mapuche were quite warlike. In the early 1500s, the survivors of the first Spanish expedition south from Peru called themselves “Men of Chilli.”

Your city of entry, assuming that you are flying in, will be the capital of Chile, Santiago de Chile. It’s Chile’s most densely populated city and the cultural, political and financial center. It’s home to many multinational corporations.

The downtown area is dotted with art deco, neo-gothic and other styles. Take a stroll down one of its winding streets or visit one of the many parks. The outskirts of the city are surrounded by vineyards. There are more than 100 wineries in Chile which now ranks as the fifth largest exporter of wine in the world.

For a new wine experience, visit Emiliana Vineyards, just about an hour outside of Santiago. These folks are dedicated and passionate about organic winemaking. They are the first winery in South America to create abiodynamic wine. Cheers as you toast with a glass of their Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.

Don’t leave Chile without trying their national drink, Pisco. It’s a clear liquid similar to brandy, grown in the Elqui Valley from only certain types of grapes that are fermented and then distilled into a potent “aguardiente.”You’ll find it mixed with different soft drinks like Coca-Cola (Piscola) orginger ale. The most common version is the Pisco sour where it is blended with lemon juice, sugar, ice and beaten egg whites. It has a passionate following in Chile and Peru with both countries claiming to be the original producers of this lively liqueur. Don’t be surprised by its potency, Pisco sours can be quite strong but they’re deceptively very smooth as well. Oftentimes Pisco is housed in these neat leather-looking bottles with detailed etchings – just adds to the fun and memories.

 

Keep in mind that when you are in Santiago the mountains or the sea are only an hour away.

You’ll want to visit the port city of Valparaiso known as “The Garden City.” In addition to lush vistas from this major seaport and educational hub (home to several universities), you’ll be delighted when you encounter a street musician or dazzled by artwork. They have world-class street art.

The buildings are vast canvases for intricate paintings. For a really good perspective, try one of the cable cars for an unforgettable aerial view. And for you author fans, Pablo Neruda, the Chilean Nobel prize winning poet, loved this city. You may want to visit his eccentric house, La Sebastiana.

 

Chile is home to one of the driest deserts in the world, the Atacama Desert. Parts of this arid land have not seen rain since record keeping began. While devoid of water, the Atacama is home to geoglyphs – large drawings on the side of mountains. One of the largest anthropomorphic figures is nearly 400 feet high thought to be an ancient deity.

 

From the driest desert, Chile has one of the highest lakes above sea level in the world called “Lake Chungara.” Near Puerto Varas, Petrohue Falls, inside Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, affords some beautiful scenery -like Osorno Volcano -and the Andes. The hike is doable and the trails are well maintained. Don’t be disappointed as the waterfalls aren’t the high variety falling down from above. They are more like a series of rapids spurting out from the rocks but definitely worth a visit especially to see the brilliant turquoise waters. With the white-capped volcano in the background and a series of trails to choose from, youcan escape for quiet reflection. For many who visit Chile, the visit to Petrohue Falls is a high point.

 

While there is a new bridge built next to it, you can walk on the old picturesque Quelhue Bridge over the Trancura River. It’s used by the locals and now a tourist attraction. The Trancura River has white water rafting as well as fly-fishing. Home to hundreds of volcanoes, you’ll be able to see three spectacular ones from this bridge.

In the heart of the lake district is Pucon, a lovely town nestled beside Lake Villarrica with the smoking Villarrica Volcano as a picture-perfect backdrop. Villarrica Volcano is one of the most active volcanoes in Latin America. It is an adventure wonderland due to its beautiful landscape and number of glaciers. You can climb by foot to the crater for a spectacular 360-degree view or ski down its slopes. If you didn’t know that you were in Chile, you might think you were in an Alpine town in Europe. The town is small and easy to walk around and it is the base for a number of nearby excursions. Take in a thermal pool or volcano climb or bask on the black sand beach.

Pucon has a bit of an aristocratic air to it. It was once the home of foreign fishers, artists and intellectuals. Today, you can stay in a hostel or a luxurious night at the casino.

So clear. The lakes in this area distinguish themselves because of their

enduring crystallinity due to underground drains. During the winter, the

toxins received during the summer, are drained. The region is sparsely

populated so the waters are not affected by agriculture. So, transparency and purity are maintained. Lake Caburgua is one of the last Chilean lakes unspoiled by algae.

 

And then there’s Patagonia, a region encompassing the vast southernmost tip of South America shared by Chile and Argentina with the Andes Mountains as a dividing line. The Argentinian side features arid grasslands, steppes and deserts but on the Chilean side you’ll find glacial fjords and temperate rainforests.

Definitely plan a visit to the Torres del Paine National Park. This park has mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers. Paine means “blue” in the native Tehuelche (Aonikenk) language. It is pronounced PIE-nay. You will be dazzled by the bluest waters which release their heavenly hues into the glaciers that often are found floating on top. Not only blue but often jutting up like mountains of diamonds glistening in the sun – quite dramatic.

Speaking of drama, the Torres del Paine are the distinctive three granite peaks of the Paine mountain range. You won’t miss them as they soar some 8,200 feet above sea level. The valleys and lakes in this area are perfect to see from atop of a horse or hiking one of the many trails. TripAdvisor has ranked this stunningly gorgeous area as the 8th Wonder of the World.

 

Forming a long row of black silhouettes against a setting sun, Easter Island is known for its nearly 1,000 extant monumental statues, called moai, created by the early Rapa Nui people. It is one of the most isolated islands on Earth. It is officially a Chilean island at the southeasternmost point of the Polynesian Triangle in Oceania some 2,300 miles from Chile’s west coast and 2,500 miles east of Tahiti. The creators of these magical giants were master craftsmen and engineers. It is still unknown exactly why they were built in such numbers and scale averaging 13 feet in height and weighing 13 tons. Wonder how they moved them around the island? Plan a visit if you can.

If you are into star gazing, the atmosphere in the mountains in the northern part of Chile is excellent because the air is so clear. In fact, recorded to have 300 clear nights a year. Naturally, there are several observatories in thearea.

Blessed with extraordinary natural beauty, Chile is also home to nine different indigenous groups. The largest one is the Mapuche, followed by the Aymara, the Diaguita, the Lickanantay and the Quechua peoples. Take advantage of opportunities to visit and learn about their cultures. Each has their own customs and traditions.

Chile is blessed with very diverse landscapes from dry deserts to icy slopes, it has excellent culinary treats from street vendors to fine restaurants, great beer and wine – in fact, a burgeoning microbrewery scene – art, history, culture and magnificent natural beauty.

Chile has a little bit of everything and more. Oh, I don’t want to leave out something for you sports enthusiasts. The Pan American games will be held in Santiago, Chile in October 2023. Try a visit before and I’m sure that you will want to return.

Good things come in small packages. Traveling in a smaller group ensures that you will have a more intimate experience and the flexibility and freedom to explore. Biotrek Adventure Travels offers just such a package for the discriminating vagabond.

Visit www.biotrekadventuretravels.com or contact 540-349-0040

Anita Sherman is the community editor for the Fauquier Times, a freelance writer and a sometimes-itinerant traveler. You may reach her atanitajustwrite@gmail.com

 

 

Ready to Rumba

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By Anita L. Sherman

“​I live in Cuba because I love Cuba.​” Ernest Hemingway

Thinking of a trip to Cuba?

If you are, then you’re the kind of traveler that already knows you’re seeking an adventure off the beaten track, but as with most paths not taken, you know if you don’t get there you won’t be able to check that country off your bucket list.

The largest of the Caribbean islands, from the air Cuba resembles an alligator or crocodile and is known in Spanish as ​”El Cocodrilo” or “El Caimá.”

Currently, it’s advantageous to be part of an organized group which could make your trip to Cuba a little more expensive but what good meal doesn’t come with a price tag. Often worth lightening your wallet for that once in a lifetime experience.

Chiefly under Spanish rule from the 1500s, the country of Cuba was created more than 150 years ago, in 1868. Cuba is a country noted for its perseverance. Politically it has been through a lot but its people have persisted under a variety of regimes and produced art, music, architecture, cuisine and dance that is celebrated worldwide. Cuba is the ​birthplace of classic dance styles like the Bolero, Mambo and Cha Cha. Many of the bars and clubs feature live salsa, perhaps the most famous form of musical expression in Cuba. Oh, but then there’s the rumba. They’re all good.

Rich in history, one city not to miss is Camaguey. After you’ve soaked in its quaint colonial streets and plazas and you’re ready to let loose, check out the Casa de la Trova for some music and dancing. Don’t worry, there are plenty of residents that will be happy to take you for a rumba around the room.

When you’re in Cuba you’ll undoubtedly see scores of young children running around in various colored uniforms. Grade school is mandatory for every child in Cuba between the ages of 6 and 15. Uniforms are required and the various colors indicate grade level. Cuba has a 99.8 percent literacy rate, which is one of the highest in the world.

Cuba has the highest doctor to patient ratio in the world. In fact, there are so many doctors in Cuba, that many of them are sent abroad to countries needing medical professionals.

Off limits for so many years, travelers are eager to visit this country known for its colorful vintage cars, Desi Arnez ambiance, and Ernest Hemingway haunts.

Oh, those vintage cars. Keep in mind that the only cars that Cuban citizens can own legally are cars produced and bought before 1959. After that they were seized by the Cuban government. Most of the pre-1959 cars in Cuban are from the United States.

A war correspondent, author Hemingway became a permanent fixture in Havana, Cuba’s capital. He made a decision to stay in this country longer than many Americans elected to when relations between Cuba and the United States wet sour. He liked the island lifestyle, fishing from his boat Pilar, hanging out in Havana and entertaining guests at his now famous home Finca Vigia. You can go there today and view his many hunting trophies, original furnishings and artifacts. If you want to soak up more of Hemingway’s world visit the nearby seaside town of Cojimar.

Sadly, for Hemingway, little of the work he did from his Cuban home was published during his lifetime. Many of his works written throughout the 40s were later edited and published posthumously.

If you happened to catch the recent Westminster Kennel Club dog show that was held in New York you’ll know that darling Bono won the toy group. Bono is a Havanese, the national dog of Cuba, it’s a first for this breed. Prancing around the arena with his long, silky silvery and white coat, he strutted like the true champion he is to victory.

The Havanese is a sturdy dog of many colors and patterns. He’s friendly, playful, alert and intelligent. His gait is springy and sets him apart from other breeds.

I thought at the time that all of his characteristics speak for the culture and character of Cuba itself. His win is a win for Cuba and no doubt a further enticement to visit this enchanting country.

So, stretch. See yourself walking those sun-drenched cobblestone streets listening to sultry salsa music, eating creole cooking, perhaps a sweet thing tinged with coconut and relish this land of rum, revolutions and rumba.

Good things come in small packages. Traveling in a smaller group insures that you will have a more intimate experience and the flexibility and freedom to explore. Biotrek Adventure Travels offers just such a package for the discriminating vagabond.

Anita Sherman is the community editor for the Fauquier Times, a freelance writer and a sometimes-itinerant traveler. You may reach her at anitajustwrite@gmail.com

Portugal is pure enchantment and music to my soul

By Anita L. Sherman

Lisbon viewAh, Portugal. When I visited the country of Portugal (admittedly a few years ago) it was after a visit to its neighbor Spain. While the two countries hover near the western edge of Europe, they, like their other European neighbors have distinct personalities and cultures.

Two years after Christopher Columbus was out sailing to discover new worlds in 1492, the Treaty of Tordesillas was signed, essentially giving Portugal the eastern half of the “New World,” which at that time included Brazil, Africa, and Asia. The Portuguese Empire was the first global empire in history and one of the longest-lived colonial powers lasting some six centuries.

Its borders have remained the same since 1139 giving it the distinction of being the oldest nation-state in Europe. It remained a kingdom until 1910. Portuguese remains the official language in nine countries. I share these historical facts only to give you a sense of the rich and proud history that this country claims whether you are navigating its capital or one of the tiny, picture-perfect villages or visiting its coastline. Portugal shimmers with color whether it’s one of their markets, cafes, monasteries, castles or churches.
Lisbon trolley

Lisbon is the capital and most likely the first place you’ll touch down in Portugal. Of course, hit the high points like the Belem Tower and the Jeronimo Monastery. Bring good walking shoes as Lisbon is built on seven hills. Your calf muscles may get a work out. It’s all worth it though to stroll through the historic districts. The views are awesome. Lisbon has a neat and inexpensive tram system so you can hope on board to get around. And then there are the tuk-tuks. They were originally made in Italy post World War II. The taxi drivers may give you a look but these nifty vehicles easily navigate Lisbon’s hills and suit the geography. Better yet, if you’ve got a good guide with a van, you can have the best of both worlds – ease of navigating the hills, recommendations for Lisbon’s must-sees and time on your own if you want to try a tuk-tuk.

If you are fluent in Spanish that’s great, but don’t assume you’ll hear it spoken all the time. Remember Portuguese is the official language but lots of folks are fluent in English particularly the younger set.

If you get a chance to stroll through the Alfama neighborhood, you may hears the sound of Fado music wafting through the night air. “Fado” means destiny or fate in Portuguese and is a traditional form of music known for its soulful, and sometimes melancholy tones. It won’t break your bank to take in a meal and performance in this budget-friendly popular district. Good food, tasty wine, guitars and mandolins…what’s not to like and enjoy?

Many of the buildings are colorfully tiled, and are a feast for the eyes. Equally dazzling and tantalizing, and in this case edible, are the bakery items. Whether you go for savory or sweet, try one of the many treats available. Chirozos come with an added flare in many restaurants. These delicious sausages are often served on fire. Wait for the flames to die down before eating!

vineyard in portugalTake a boat ride in Porto for a relaxing time on the Douro River. It’s a unique perspective to see this historical city from the river’s view. Famous for its Port, wine may not always be the first choice of beverage. Lisbon and surrounding places like Sintra find folks drinking a smooth cherry liqueur called ginjinha or ginja. Pop in a local bar or kiosk and you may find it served in a chocolate cup.

Wine aficionados will be happy to know that Portugal has its own wine trail with acres of vineyards dotting the landscape. There are many varieties but equally interesting is what keeps it bottled up – the cork. Portugal is the largest cork producer in the world accounting for some 70 percent of the world’s cork exports. The main importers of Portuguese cork are Germany, the U.K., and the U.S. The country also has the largest cork forest.

The Alentejo’s Cork Country has its own dialect with a strong Moorish flavor. The romance of these woods is unmistakable interrupted by the occasional wine estate or olive grove. When the bark is harvested, the trees light up the day like tall red sentinels against the horizon. Its bark is renewable and don’t limit cork to topping bottles. Shops are full of all manner of items made from cork including handbags and shoes.

I’m a bird and wildlife fan and the cork oak woodlands, known as “montados” in Portugal provide a friendly and sustainable environment to not only produce cork, but a place to graze livestock and a haven for wildlife. Forty-two bird species depend on them including the endangered Spanish imperial eagle as well as rare species like the black vulture and black stork. A host of smaller birds such as robins, finches and song thrushes migrate to the Iberian Peninsula’s cork forests from northern Europe joined by the blackcaps from the United Kingdom. During the spring and summer, the forests play host to a rich variety of butterflies and plants. In the remotest parts of these protected lands, the rare Iberian lynx can still be found.

I’ve talked about reserves in other countries and like to mention when I observe a country’s commitment to preservation and conservation. To me, it speaks volumes about its character and charm. Such is Portugal.

Don’t leave the Alentejo area without a visit to Monsaraz. Perched on a hill overlooking the Alentejo plain, this magical and medieval village speaks to visitors with an ancient voice laced in history and romance. Made of lime and schist, its walls hold stories about courageous kings, Knights Templar, and brave folk through the ages. Seemingly suspended in time, and one of the oldest villages in Portugal, it’s a must see in you are visiting this country. In 2017, it won the category of “Monument Villages” in the Seven wonders of Portugal competition.

cabo da roca portugalThe beaches are blissful in the Algarve region – the southernmost tip of Portugal. Granted it continues to grow as a tourist attraction because of its warm climate, beaches and numerous other attractions, but it’s definitely worth a day’s explore if you get the opportunity.

The Algarve area boasts one of the best-preserved castles in a town of colorful orange rooftops called Silves. Enjoy the red-stone walls and winding, sleepy backstreets. Not a whole lot going on but that’s okay if you want a break from the more bustling coast.

A couple more interesting facts about Portugal that I share, only again, because I believe it speaks to this gracious and charming country’s character. While the bull may be killed afterward or spared for breeding, he is not killed in the arena. Stabbed a few times perhaps but not killed as a spectacle. Making it more interesting, at the end, a ‘suicide squad’ of eight take him on face to face on the ground sans horse.

Perhaps that concern for the animal echoes their concern for humanity. Portugal abolished slavery all the way back in 1761. That’s well before Britain, France, Spain or the United States.

If you plan to travel to Portugal, consider off-season visiting like the spring or fall. The summer months are more crowded. Climate is good most of the year. Portugal’s weather is not unlike what you will find in other Mediterranean countries. Temperate and without extremes. Granted it’s one of the warmest European countries, but count on those cooler waters of the Atlantic to keep down the heat.

I found Portugal a peaceful place often taking refuge in out of the way backstreets which always afforded a place for good food and exchanges with the people who are welcoming and gracious. Certainly, if you go take in several towns. Like the country itself, each has its own character and flavor.

Ah, Portugal – a perfect place to explore and bask in its vibrancy.

Good things come in small packages. Traveling in a smaller group insures that you will have a more intimate experience and the flexibility and freedom to explore. Biotrek Adventure Travels offers just such a package for the discriminating vagabond. Visit www.biotrekadventuretravels.com or contact 540-349-0040

Anita Sherman is the community editor for the Fauquier Times, a freelance writer and a sometimes-itinerant traveler. You may reach her at anitajustwrite@gmail.com

Inimitable and enigmatic, India awaits

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By Anita L. Sherman

At one point in my travels, I found myself sitting on the patio of a small hotel overlooking pristine white beaches taking an afternoon rest. I was in South Asia. Among those lounging about was Sir Arthur C. Clarke, notable for his science fiction blockbuster 2001: A Space Odyssey. I later learned that he relished this part of the world and came as often as he could. As we comfortably chatted, a praying mantis landed on my knee. As I was about to brush it off, he told me that I was very lucky that it had chosen me to visit. So, I let it sit there awhile although I am not a fan of insects – particularly rather large iridescent green ones with triangular heads. But, I took a lesson from Clarke and the culture around me and treated it with respect.

In India, guests reach a near god-like status and are very welcomed. The country is large and divided into nearly 30 states with as many languages.  India is complicated and affects people in different ways. While it may be teeming with humanity, its history, mystique and charm are undeniable. There’s lots to love.

I’m a romantic so I opt for the ‘love it’ option. What’s not to love about the Taj Mahal? Aside from the fact that it is constructed with white marble, it is architecturally a magnificent structure combining Indian, Persian and Islamic styles of architecture. The architect, Ahmed Lahauri, had a vision of paradise in his pristine structure that took more than 20 years to build. And it is reported that it took more than 20,000 hands to create, from laborers and stonecutters to painters, embroidery artists and calligraphers to name just a few.

The Taj Mahal is one of the world’s most symmetrical structures. Its four sides are perfectly identical. Yet, it has its moods, like a woman, like a lover and viewed at different times of the day, you’ll see its creamy white turn to a pinkish hue. With its marble and tile, the Taj Mahal has a tremendously reflective character. It’s a particular attraction with a full moon. Sunrise is spectacular.

Speaking of symmetry, I’m reminded of one of my favorite poems by William Blake.

Tiger. Tiger. Burning bright,

In the forests of the night;

What immortal hand or eye.

Could frame they fearful symmetry?

Among the world’s cats, while fearsome, the elegant and sleek beauty of the Bengal tiger is unrivaled. Sadly, most of the world’s large species of cats are on the endangered list. So, a visit to Ranthambhore National Park gives hope, learning about the Indian government’s Project Tiger, a conservation program launched in 1973 during the administration of Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. Its mission is to sustain a viable population of Bengal tigers in their natural habitats. The government has set up a Tiger Protection Force to not only combat poachers but fund relocation efforts to minimize human-tiger conflicts. If you’re an animal fan like myself, you’ll enjoy seeing a host of animal and bird life from crocodiles to sloth bears and black storks to serpent eagles – bring your camera – suspect you’ll see a tiger or two as well.

If ever there was a movie that would entice you to India, in my book, it’s got to be The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel with a cast of characters that, in many ways, captures much of the heart and soul that is India – romantic, chaotic, well meaning, funny, colorful, ritualistic and honorable. The movie is set in Jaipur – known as The Pink City – and when you see a couple of soon-to-be star-crossed lovers from the film scootering through the narrow streets of pink-colored buildings, you’ll know why it’s called that – most of the structures are a shade of pink.

Crazy for color? Dhulandi (Holi), known as the “festival of colors” is a Hindu festival celebrating the triumph of good over evil and the changing of the seasons. Out bad winter and welcome spring! It’s held in The Pink City. Dancing and parading with a troupe of dhol players – traditional wooden drum played in South Asia – participants will splash each other with water and powdered colors of red, yellow, blue and green. It’s a vibrant burst of living color to be sure as family and friends come together to laugh, dance and feast. Residents of the city put in a lot of effort and heart into this unique festival not to be missed if you are vising  Jaipur during this time. Truly a memorable experience.

holi festival colorsWhile the Taj Mahal is no doubt at the top of the list when it comes to regal structures, there is no shortage of forts, mosques, palaces and temples to dazzle and delight. Amber Fort overlooks the Maota Lake. A network of palaces and courtyards winds its way up a hill.

Magical and mysterious, India is full of surprises. One such place worth a visit is the town of Fatehpur Sikri, a complex of intricate structures made of red stone clay, this town is in the Agra District of Uttar Pradesh. It was built in 1571 by Emperor Akbar, partially abandoned when he left for a campaign in Punjab and then completely abandoned in 1610. Standing more than 175 feet high and massive in structure and design, the Buland Darwaza, marks its entrance. Let your imagination do some spinning. Why would you totally leave such a place?

When you visit Delhi, be sure to see the Lotus Temple, so named because of its flowerlike shape. It is a Bahá’í House of Worship open to all regardless of religious affiliation. Aside from its architect Furiburz Sabha winning many awards, it is surrounded by lush and alluring gardens, well worth a look see.  Modern in design, while in stark contrast to many of the ancient structures, it speaks to a side of India today that is forward thinking yet at the same time honoring the rich legacy of this country’s rich past.

While small in stature, Mahatma Gandhi was larger than life. An Indian activist and leader of the Indian independence movement against British rule, he led his cause using nonviolent acts of civil disobedience. Not only did he lead India to independence, he inspired worldwide movements for civil rights and freedoms around the world. You can learn more about his life at the Mahatma Gandhi Museum in New Delhi.

Mixed in with so much to see, there’s lots to hear, smell, taste and touch as India is alive with exotic foods, colorful markets and bazaars and the teeming life of the streets.

Oh, and you can be lucky enough to visit without a praying mantis landing on your knee.

Good things come in small packages. Traveling in a smaller group insures that you will have a more intimate experience and the flexibility and freedom to explore. Biotrek Adventure Travels offers just such a package for the discriminating vagabond.

Visit www.biotrekadventuretravels.com or call 540-349-0040

Anita Sherman is the community editor for the Fauquier Times, a freelance writer and a sometimes-itinerant traveler. You may reach her at anitajustwrite@gmail.com

Mesmerizing Landscapes Await in the land of the long white cloud

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By Anita L. Sherman

I’ve always felt that knowing a few quirky facts about the place you are going or have been too adds to your travel experience conversations. After all, let’s face it, most of us are envious when we know someone that has booked a trip, particularly to places deemed exotic. No matter what shade of green you don for your envy attire, it won’t match the iridescent glimmer of New Zealand’s landscapes. You might as well add this charming country to your bucket list and throw your green ensemble away. You won’t need it. You’ll be living it.

But, I digress. I was distracted thinking about the overpowering beauty of New Zealand. About a third of the country is comprised of protected national parks. What I meant to share was my taste for kiwi fruit, Punakaiki, Paparoa National Parkgranted a subtler shade of green but nonetheless delightful. Years ago, when I was in Australia, my hosts introduced me to pavlova, a meringue-like dessert, in this case, layered with finely sliced kiwi on top. I’ve always been a fan of this fruit, but it is not native to New Zealand as many think it is. It is named after New Zealand’s kiwi bird, but its origins hail from China. You’ll find this luscious, succulently sweet fruit in New Zealand’s fusion cuisine.

I’m also a huge flick fan. I cherish a good film. And I loved Lord of the Rings. Suspect you know where I’m going with this. All but one scene of the Lord of the Rings films was shot in New Zealand. The marketing side of me says that you’ve basically got a 12-hour long infomercial for the country’s landscapes, i.e. Middle Earth.

Officially home to the Lord of Rings movies, New Zealand broadcast the first weather report in Elvish language in 2012.

When you arrive in Auckland, don’t be alarmed by the number of volcanic cones. There are 50 of them, but most are extinct. You can see Mount Rangitoto from the harbor. It’s the most prominent.

White cNew Zealand snow-capped mountainsapped mountaintops. Lots of them. When you travel with Sunny Reynolds of Biotrek Adventure Travels to New Zealand, Fox Glacier is a stopping place. New Zealand is the third closest country to Antarctica, only after Chile and Argentina.

I grew up in Portland, Oregon. Really like living in a postcard with the views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier as a backdrop. An hour gets you to the mountains and an hour west gets you to the Pacific Ocean. Sand in my toes, salty wind in my hair, screeching seagulls and the ocean with its ever-changing moods. These are the ingredients for my nirvana, so yet another notch for New Zealand. No matter where you are in this country, you’ll never be more than 80 miles from the seaside. My kind of big water connection. New Zealand may look like a small country on the map but it has the 9th longest coastline in the world, with a length of 9,400 miles.

While I doubt that you would want to pay the extra baggage fee to bring your golf clubs and your travel itinerary may not include an 18-hole detour, there are more than 400 golf courses, more per capita than anywhere else in the world.

What’s that musical, ‘on a clear day you can see forever.’ Sacred to the local Maori, New Zealand’s Blue Lake is the clearest lake in the world with visibility up to 80 meters deep. That’s roughly 262 feet.

I’m also an advocate for taking big leaps…not like jumping out of a plane without a parachute…not a death wish…but calculated risks are fine. Like risks that entrepreneurs take on a regular basis. One such enterprising New Zealand fellow is Alan John, “A.J.” Hackett who spent a brief time in jail in 1987 for a jump off the Eiffel Tower. But he sprang back and inSkyline Queenstown, New Zealand 1988 created a site on the Kawarau George Suspension Bridge in Queenstown noted as the world’s first commercial public bungy. He is also given credit for launching New Zealand’s adventure tourism industry. In 2017, as part of the Queen’s Birthday Honours, he was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to adventure tourism. Way to go A.J.

Oh, to be inspired. Hackett has a list of daring jumps to his credit. His idea for “bungee” came from cultural jumps performed in Vanuatu where their idea of safety is tree vines tied to their feet. I’ve done the walk between trees deal hanging on to a rope rail but jumping from a bridge with springy cords. Not sure.

What I am sure about is the allure of New Zealand destinations, places like Waiheke Island, Waitomo Caves, Rotorua, Abel Tasman National Park, Punakaiki, Dart River Wilderness Safari, and Milford. Really, there are no bad itineraries. The range of scenery is breathtaking whether you are walking in a rain forest or hiking a mountain or visiting a glacier or beach combing.

The Maori’s name for New Zealand is Aotearoa, ‘land of the long white cloud.’

I’m an adventure advocate. I like going places, seeing new things, taking the road less traveled, all that high energy, high enthusiasm stuff, the stuff of stories. The stuff you write about and share. And travel trivia, I like that too.

See you in New Zealand!

Good things come in small packages. Traveling in a smaller group insures that you will have a more intimate experience and the flexibility and freedom to explore. Biotrek Adventure Travels offers just such a package for the discriminating vagabond. Visit www.biotrekadventuretravels.com or contact 540-349-0040

Anita Sherman is the community editor for the Fauquier Times, a weekly columnist for the Culpeper Star Exponent, a freelance writer and a sometimes-itinerant traveler. You may reach her at anitajustwrite@gmail.com

 

 

Morocco On My Mind

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By Anita L. Sherman

I’m a writer and keeper of journals. When I went with Sunny Reynolds with Biotrek Adventure Travels to the Galapagos Islands a friend gifted me a small, leather bound book for notetaking and jotting down impressions. I can look back, read a few lines and remember that particular magic moment.

Those once in a lifetime moments uniquely offered when you make that decision to go on an adventure. How you experience those unforgettable moments matters. What you are seeing, smelling, hearing and tasting has much to do with where you are and how you got there.

Speaking of unforgettable moments, let’s talk about Morocco, a destination planned for October of this year. I was chatting with a good friend of mine recently and mentioned Morocco. His eyes lit up and he said, “wow, I can think of a lot of movies made in Morocco.”

Of course, Humphrey Bogart’s portrayal of Rick Blaine immediately came to mind in Casablanca, but that filming never left Warner Brothers Studio except for some shooting at Van Nuys Airport. However, having dinner at Rick’s Cafe is definitely worth the memories. The restaurant and piano bar are designed with architectural and decorative details reminiscent of the film – watch for shadows cast on the white walls from the light of luminous brass fixtures. The food is excellent and, of course, there is a pianist on hand to add some music as time goes by in Casablanca.

There are, however, dozens of films that were produced in this North African denizen of medinas and souks.

Morocco has spectacular year-round weather. The sun shines just about all of the time. It has a range of landscapes from its fantastic deserts, many with massive fortifications, to its labyrinth-like and beautiful cities to its coastal towns. Filmmakers have been drawn to Morocco and Morocco, in turn, has been very hospitable to them, making it a good match. With Morocco as a backdrop, this country continues to be a dream destination favorite for mystery and adventure aficionados as well as romantics.

I know that some of my earliest images of the beauty of this land came from watching Peter O’Toole, clad in flowing white robes, with his dazzling blue eyes, looking out over oceans of pristine desert in Lawrence of Arabia filmed in 1962.

Author’s impressions of Morocco can be found in works like Marrakech the Red City, which contains George Orwell’s impressions of Marrakech.

Credited for being the first travel guide of Morocco, is In Morocco, written by American novelist Edith Wharton in 1920. Her work contains vivid encounters with the wild Berber tribesmen in the Medina of Marrakech and in the houses of the gentry with their restricted role for women. She also talks about the harems of Rabat and Fez.

A Year in Morocco by Peter Mayne will give you a glimpse into life in Marrakech and is useful for understanding some of the foibles, customs and pitfalls of setting up a home there.

American novelist Paul Bowles loved Tangiers. He spent 52 years living there and he wrote about the city he cherished in Travels: Collected Writings. His novels and short stories include Morocco often and he recorded Berber Tribal music which is now preserved in the US Library of Congress.

Oh, I mentioned Peter O’Toole’s blue eyes and white robes for a reason. You’ll see a lot of blue and white in Morocco in terms of a color theme.

And shades of blue. Shut off from the world for nearly 500 years, Chefchaouen is one of Morocco’s best kept secrets – it’s an all blue city and now open to visitors. Talk about magical charm and mystery, this hilly Moroccan outpost will grab at your heartstrings. Where’s my journal.

There are a number of theories as to why these buildings are bedecked in blue whether to mirror the surrounding sea, as a color of optimism and happiness, tranquility or perhaps deeper religious or cultural meanings. You’ll see men garbed in blue in the desert as well and blue fabrics and blue prayer mats.

Whatever the reason, Chefchaouen is dazzling and worth the several hour jaunt from Fes to get there.

Oh, those handsome men wrapped in blue in the desert are often with one-humped Arabian camels called dromedaries. They will be your cruise ship of choice when it comes to navigating the seas of the Sahara Desert and sand dunes of Erg Chebbi.

Sunny tells me that her favorite spot in Morocco is Essaouira. This medina is walkable. It’s also blue and white and has an active fishing port. Oh, and that 50s movie Othello was shot there, a fan favorite for Orson Wells.

Also, walkable but perhaps more challenging is the largest medina in the world, the old capital of Morocco, Fez. With more than 9,500 narrow streets, it is possible to lose your way. I didn’t say getting lost, because winding your way through this labyrinth is a travel adventure. One piece of advice is that you might want to keep your sunglasses on as you shop – merchants may spot you looking and assume you’re ready to haggle. No set price tags in the souks of Morocco’s medinas.

Another celebrity that has put Morocco on the map is fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Featured in the 1997 Chelsea Flower Show in London, the Majorelle Gardens, that he formerly owned, has become another ‘go to’ stop in Morocco. The buildings, of course, are cobalt blue but splash that canvas with bright orange nasturtiums, pink geraniums and yellow lemons. More than 15 different birds have made the Majorelle Gardens their home. They enjoy flitting from bamboo groves and date palms to lily covered pools.

So, your pre-travel diet should consist of watching a few flicks filmed in Morocco to get a sense of flavor, spend some time reading what others have already written about Morocco and finding a friend in a journal.

It’s also important to choose the right travel guide, someone who has walked where you will walk, seen what you will see and share what she has learned. Unless you have unlimited time, your resources are best devoted to an expert who has paved the way for your journal of unforgettable moments.

See you in Morocco!

Good things come in small packages. Traveling in a smaller group insures that you will have a more intimate experience and the flexibility and freedom to explore. Biotrek Adventure Travels offers just such a package for the discriminating vagabond. Visit www.biotrekadventuretravels.com or contact 540-349-0040

Anita Sherman is the community editor for the Fauquier Times, a weekly columnist for the Culpeper Star Exponent, a freelance writer and a sometimes-itinerant traveler. You may reach her at anitajustwrite@gmail.com

A Perfect Safari

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Tall giraffe eating We had a great guide, itinerary, accommodations, and we had luck, all coming together to create the perfect safari. We saw lions, but not just lions.We saw lions in trees. We drove right under the famous tree-climbing lions of Lake Manyara National Park. We saw leopards. Once again, we were lucky. The leopard had cubs! We saw a cheetah with a kill, had elephants walk right past our vehicle, and watched a massive herd of wildebeest throw themselves from the riverbank and forge the river. We waited in the land cruiser, all of us buzzing with anticipation, as we watched lioness circling a buck she had already injured. We all knew the ending to this story but that changed nothing. The power and patience of the lioness was beautifully matched by the regal stubbornness of the buck. We moved on, aware that we would be passing by this way later that day. When we returned, the two were still locked in this dance neither willing to give in to the other. We were patient, we were in the right place, and we got lucky. All of this set in the breathtaking African Savanna. While on our Safari I learned many new bits of information on these many different varieties of gazelles, antelope, and birds, elephants, lions, leopards, cheetahs, as well as the gorgeous environment in which they live. I have condensed our two-week Safari into the best photos and the most interesting facts!

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